Tom in Egypt // توم في مصر

Yes, the long awaited, eagerly anticipated visit of my family has drawn to a close. They arrived on the 20^th of last month in the ever hectic madness of Cairo where I waited with open arms and a big taxi to transport them to the understated luxury of the Delta Pyramids Hotel. So understated was the luxury, in fact, that to the less observant of us the hotel may have appeared somewhat shabby and dilapidated. The saving grace of the DPH was its views of the Giza pyramids which never ceased to amaze my family, dad in particular. Thus the rooftop bar provided us with a stunning backdrop for our family’s first Christmas abroad, with presents and sheesha abounding. After a few chaotic days on the tourist circuit we jumped on board the express to Alex and three hours later arrived home. The last few days we were in Cairo was the first time I feel I’ve properly missed Alexandria and the Mediterranean; a sign of how settled I feel here perhaps.

On arrival we transferred straight to the Helnan Palestine hotel at the very eastern end of the city in the pleasant greenery of Montazah gardens. Thankfully the hotel and its stunningly picturesque setting – the views of Farouk’s palace from the balcony being a particular highlight – provided a perfect sanctuary for my family to relax after an excellent but stressful few days in the capital. Far happier in the relative calm of Alexandria, and with me feeling more confident in a city I know so well, we visited most of my regular haunts as well as going on enjoyable visits to the library and the catacombs. We also had a day out to the memorials and museum at Al-Alamein; a visit poignantly echoing memorable family holidays spent in Normandy. The contrast in scenery between the rolling green bocage of Normandy and the bleak, desolate desert of Al-Alamein couldn’t be starker but the cemeteries mirroring one another provide moving reminders of the truly global scale of the disaster that was the Second World War. The memories of long journeys to remote French museums with my family gave the day special meaning. The last 10 days have been the first family holiday and the longest time I’ve spent with them perhaps since those summers in France, and after four months of absence it’s been really special having them around again and being able to share my life in Egypt with them.

Once again I’m sat by the Red Sea enjoying the winter sun with Michael, the apparently now internationally renowned blogger. We’re here in what is really a very upmarket Russian-filled Butlin’s, but there is sun and sea and a few decent restaurants, and it’s nice just to be able to sit and read and chat and relax. Michael’s many stories of Pakistan are also making me particularly excited for my visit at the end of March; as Michael often says “if those bickering politicians mean I can’t stay, never mind one another, they’ll have me to deal with”. Sharm, unlike Dahab, is really a fairly soulless place that the people here tell me has changed and improved since my last visit, but it’s clean and quiet and everything Cairo and Alex aren’t – whether for better or worse. Michael leaves on Sunday and then I’m in Cairo for a little while before heading back to Alex to get cracking with all the translation that I’ve thus far put off; 2 sides of A4 into Arabic never seems to get any more appealing.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year

Tom xxx توم

PS. Pictures to follow - Inshallah