Tom in Egypt // توم في مصر

Sat in Lahore airport using the free internet (anyone reading from European airport take note) to write my final update before I'm back in Karachi. Now I know this could mean an unprecedented 3 updates in 5 days, but what can I say? You have to give the people what they want...

Mughal decoration in Lahore fort

I left you after wandering round "old" Karachi, and after writing the last entry Michael and I went to the Mughal restaurant in the hotel, wonderfully called "Dumphukt". More excellent curry was enjoyed as we planned for the next day, deciding we should start the morning at the Lahore museum, then on to Jehangir and Noor Jehan's mausoleums, before returning to the tasteful (and tasty) Croweaters gallery/cafe for lunch. The mausoleums and surrounding complexes were beautiful, and we spent a few happy hours wandering round in the sun, much as Jehangir would have done 350 years ago. Only without the dancing girls and wine. For those of you following the Mughal king family line, Jehangir and Noor Jehan were Shah Jehan's parents and Mumtaz Mehal's aunt and uncle. I'm sure Wikipedia would do a better job of explaining it all.

The afternoon was similarly spent strolling round in the sun, this time in the opulent serenity of the Shalimar Gardens*. The gardens are completely wonderful and I was particularly impressed by how many locals there were enjoying the weather and the expansive lawns. The only things more beautiful and colourful than the flowers were the duapttas worn by the women enjoying the gardens.

After leaving the gardens we started out along the Grand Trunk Road to the Indian border. Apparently the road stretches from Peshawar to Calcutta, and it’s Pakistani journey comes to an end at the Wagha border crossing, Pakistan’s only land border crossing with India. I first saw Wagha feature as part of an excellent documentary by Sanjiv Bhaskar for the BBC to celebrate the anniversary of Partition, and was extremely excited at seeing the ceremony for myself.

The apparently famous "old man of Wagha". He's in the Lonely Planet don't you know...

Every evening at 5 crowds amass in grandstands on both sides of the border, with plenty of flag waving and shouts of “Pakistan/Hindustan zindabad!” (Long live Pakistan/India depending on which side you’re on). This is followed by a military procession straight out of the ministry of silly walks, with lots of hands on hips and puffing out of chests; very, very camp and great fun. Enjoy!

Dinner was at an enchanting little restaurant called Cooco’s, owned and opened by the Lahori artist Iqbal Hussain who, again, I first saw on the aforementioned documentary. His paintings of prostitutes from Lahore’s red-light district are highly controversial in Pakistan, but they are very impressive and the restaurant holds a small collection which I was eager to see.

Aside from the art, and the delicious, if extremely spicy food, the main attraction was the exquisite night-time view of the beautifully lit Badshahi mosque, which goes up in my estimation every time I see it, and is certainly amongst the most impressive buildings I’ve had the honour of seeing.

Badshahi Mosque by night

I’ve had a fantastic few days in Lahore, and I very much hope to return at some point in the future. Now I’m off back to Karachi for shopping, swimming, and beating Michael at crib. I’ll try and backdate on my first couple of days in Karachi tomorrow whilst Michael tries to show his Urdu teacher the fruits of my labour, as I have been trying to drill the Urdu alphabet into his head over the course of the trip. Slowly but surely, slowly but surely.

Good night all!

Txx

*No, not the curry house opposite in Uppermill. Sometimes I have to put these in because I can hear my dad's voice in my head making these awful jokes.